在我忘记之前,我要写一下这个精华。

Lancaster 365 Cellular Elixir

Lancaster是我印象比较差的一个牌子。感觉是那种已经过气的,没有赶上现代科技的牌子。这样的牌子一般做不出什么好东西,护肤品里面大概有一堆垃圾成分和外婆式的人工香料。可是这个精华却是有一批忠实的追随者,而且看介绍似乎还很前卫,含某种DNA修复成分,MUA上也是评价出奇的好,虽然只有十几篇评论。

一年多前看到这个产品,当时很好奇,无奈查了查,lancaster好像早就在美国市场上消失了,唯一能买到的地方就是香水网啊草莓网这种不明不白的地方。买护肤和买彩妆不一样,尤其是这种精华,如果不新鲜不如不买,所以想归想,还是掐掉了心中这颗好奇的小草。

两个月前无意中看到spalook的促销装里有这一款,两天之内又看到skinstore和nordstrom都开始卖这个精华了,才惊觉lancaster又打回美国市场了。 这下有机会我可以试试了。

这个精华分两款,一款普通的,一款给敏感肌用的。 据说敏感肌那款含硅较多,所以我还是选了普通款,拿到手发现普通款好像含酒精较多,不过无所谓了,我的皮肤对酒精也不过敏。

MUA上看到两个牛人讨论这个DNA修复成分,觉得解释得很清楚,遂搬过来,算做个笔记:

A君说:

The key ingredients are DNA repairing enzymes from micrococcus lysate, a mustard plant (Arabidposis Extract) and plankton extract.

Agiderm is in phase III trials of the DNA-repairing drug Dimericine and they use a similar enzyme repair technology in their OTC brand Remergent.

Estee Lauder, Lancaster and other brands buy these actives from Agiderm/Remergent and puts them in lots of their products (most recently Cliniques continuous antioxidant recovery moisturiser).

The marketing name for these enzyme actives are: Photosomes, ultrasomes and roxosomes.

B君的疑问:
It *seems* like a good idea and that all of the active ingredients are there and can reach the cells, but a lot of DNA repair enzymes have to "activated" by some sort of insult to the cell in order to start looking for areas that need to be repaired.

They are usually either linked to

1) DNA damage pathways (so that the cell senses insults that could damage DNA or the products of DNA damage and activates these enzymes)

or

2) transcription - when the cell uses DNA to transcribe RNA (such as DNA is for =), the transcriptional machinary may have some repair enzymes attached to it's "caboose". When the enzyme that makes RNA from the DNA template, RNA polymerase, is "inching along" transcribing the DNA, it can sense damage to the DNA bases or structure, and the accompanying repair enzymes (on the "caboose") will then repair it.

Of course, there are a few other ways it happens, but the point is: there isn't a lot of passive DNA repair going on in the cell most of the time I think.

I wonder if these enzymes can actually incorporate themselves into the cells machinary and have any real effect.

Are there any controlled trials or published, peer-reviewed in vitro evidence? I'd love to see it, because I'd be very interested in using this technology if anyone can prove that it actually works =) TIA!


A君的回答:

Yes, the insult is DNA damage from UV-radiation and the enzyme photolyase uses the energy from visible wavelengths of light to repair dimers in the skin more rapidly.

The liposomes carrying the enzymes (endonuclease and photolyase) has been proven to reach into the dermis and into the cells. You can read Daniel Yarosh papers on pubmed for more detailed scientific info.

DNA-excision repair in the skin is going on all the time. Otherwise we would all succumb to skin cancer. Xeroderma pigmentosum patients lack some of this repair ability and they must remove cancerous lesions continuosly.

Agiderms drug Dimericine has been tested on this patient group and it decreased precancerous lesions by 68% and cancers by 30%.

You can read more about the T4N5 Liposome Lotion on:

http://www.agiderm.com/dimericine.php


the publications on some of Daniel Yarosh DNA-repair technology is listed here:

http://remergentskin.com/abstracts.php

HTH

这里是MUA上的使用感:

http://www.makeupalley.com/product/showreview.asp/ItemId=89018/365_Cellular_Elixir_Serum/Lancaster/Treatments

~~~~~~~~产品介绍的分割线~~~~~~~~~~~~


以下是我的使用感,时间不长,才一个多星期,但是可以初步写一下,过一段时间有变化再来更新:

质地: 和一般精华一样,很水,仔细看里面有珠光?Orz。。。这到底添加了什么鬼东西。。。每次按说明要用3-4滴,但是由于它的质地很像水,一抹上去就干了,所以用量比较费,我这样不大的脸也要用附带的吸管吸两次才够用。 这几天天气很热,所以单用它也不觉得干。但是天气稍微凉一点的话,外面一定要加一个面霜。前面说了,普通款的含酒精,所以用上去能感到丝丝凉意。

味道: 好像有股淡淡的香,不是很烦扰我,还好还好。

效果: 哎,好像真的有效果亚。我的脸上前一阵冒好多小痘痘,在下巴和两颊留下一些痘印,都好几周了,而且每天还有新的小痘痘冒出来。用了这个一周多后,基本没有新的小痘痘了,这点很好,说明它至少不会致痘。而且,那些痘印消失得很快,现在出门不用粉底已经基本看不出来了。也许,它真的提高了皮肤的修复能力?

我再继续用两周,观察观察,然后会来更新。

~~~~~~~~~更新的分割线~~~~~~~~~
今天6月17日,才过了没几天嘛。。可是之前我把话说早了,自从那天写了这篇以后,就满脸爆发小痘痘,也不知道是什么东西的原因,最近东西换得太杂了,除了这个精华外,把以前不用的液体粉底也拿出来用了两天,虽然妆感很棒,但是也许是发痘的罪魁祸首噢。。然后就是换了防晒。由于前几天天气太热,LRP的spf60防晒霜突然显得很油腻,就换了支物理防晒的试试,清爽是很清爽,但是也有可能会致痘。

总而言之,现在皮肤很糟糕, 所以乖乖地换回了lrp防晒和矿物粉底。再看看这个精华到底是治痘呢还是致痘。。

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