春天似乎到了? 其实是天气一好,人的嗅觉也苏醒过来,有些蠢蠢欲动了,于是,对香水的热度又有一点回升。

前面提过,橙花是我最喜欢的味道。其实我的嗅觉很朴素,喜欢的就是简单的花香,最好是直白的,单线型的花香。那些复杂而有深度的味道常常让我头晕。所以,我不能免俗地喜欢玫瑰,橙花,茉莉,栀子这些带着一丝清新的花香。茉莉和栀子基本让我绝望,因为几乎不可能找到纯正茉莉香和栀子香的香水,所以我的目标只剩下橙花和玫瑰。

曾经以为jo malone的red rose就很不错,虽然他的味道很俗,和市面上任何玫瑰花水都闻起来差不多,但它至少是挺正的玫瑰味道。 但是不幸的是在我买了大瓶装的red rose后,就发现我的body chemistry变了,变得和所有玫瑰味道八字不合,任何玫瑰花水,body lotion, 香水,一上身就变酸,弄得我忍不住想回去洗个澡。可怜我这么喜欢玫瑰味道的人啊。。。。。。希望有一天会让我找到一瓶不变酸的玫瑰香水吧。做了一番功课,目前的目标是DSH的la rose fleurette. http://www.dshperfumes.com/floral_pdba.asp?page=1

 

关于橙花,jo malone的橙花香水很好闻,至今仍然是我的最爱之一,可惜,它的味道和橙花不搭界,只是一种好闻的白花而已,我觉得更像初夏的槐花。而真正橙花味道的香水,也很难寻觅,总是觉得里面多点肥皂味道,多点刺激的杂味,少了橙花的纯洁清晰。

 

在找橙花香水中,看到了这段关于orange blossom和neroli(橙花精油)区别的说明:

'Neroli is a steam distillation of bitter orange blossoms Citrus aurantium var. amara.

Orange blossom is an absolute solvent extracted from the blossoms of the same tree.

They differ in terms of scent due to different extraction processes. Absolutes (anything solvent extracted) tend to be truer to the real flower, whereas steam distillations have a different nature. So, that is the main difference.' (from a post by LuciaC some years ago)

Neroli is bitter. Orange blossom isn't. I can detect a minuscule amount of neroli in perfume - it makes me nauseous. If SL Fleurs d'Oranger had contained it, I wouldn't have been able to wear it for several years as my signature scent. The scent of orange blossom is unbelievably beautiful and delicate. Neroli bears very little relation to it.’

所以,如果喜欢带点苦味的就找neroli, 至于我,还是要找orange blossom. 因为我喜欢的是橙花花水的味道,而不是橙花精油的味道。希望这点知识对找橙花香水的同学也有帮助哦

 

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